When Revelation Comes

October 26, 2021 12d Comments

A Month in Alba

I shot exactly 2,872 photos with my I-phone 12 Pro during the month I spent this past August in Scotland (Alba in Scottish Gaelic). Initially, I thought I would attempt to describe the trip visually, with 100 of my favorite photos. As I started to review the images, it did not take long to realize this was an impossible task. 250 images became my arbitrary limit. What follows this introduction is a roughly chronological representation – through photographs – of my travels in August. This was my seventh trip to the undisputed and ancient home of golf. Justified and ancient, in the words of the American poet Tammy Wynette.

Time is extremely precious on a Scottish golf trip, but I had the freedom to do whatever I wanted on this visit. A few things were loosely planned, but I often went wherever my mood took me. The advice of my good friend Robbie Wilson – or someone I met randomly on the course – or even just seeing a road sign could lead to another discovery. I have started writing a book about this emotional journey, which came three months after an unthinkable tragedy in my life. The working titles under consideration are The Sacred Links of Alba, When Revelation Comes or The Price We Pay for Love. There will likely be others as the book progresses.

There were revelations on this trip:

Stunning, ancient Isle of Colonsay GC, where Robbie and I had the links to ourselves (along with the sheep) on a clear blue 60 degree day.

Gairloch GC, with 9 holes, each like an individual and intricate jewel. Perfection.

Traigh GC – perfect and ethereal, like a walk in a Scottish dream.

Durness – a remote and wild links at the end of the earth.

Reay GC – elegant and beautiful, like most James Braid courses seem to be.

Golspie GC – visually stunning and unique. From linksland to heathland and back.

Portmahomack GC – 9 holes of pure fun

Machrie Bay GC – a simple community golf course, the type you find all over Scotland. Brilliant, bizarre 2nd green and wildly fun 9th – The Road Hole

Corrie GC – a landscape that did not seem real at times.

Interestingly, I was also reminded of the greatness of courses like Panmure, North Berwick and Brora, all of which I had not played in 20 years.

I have been asked many times to list my favorite courses in this great, beautiful country. I have always felt reluctant to do that. Since 1994, I have played 82 different Scottish golf courses. The depth of quality golf courses, for a country of this size, is truly amazing. In all honesty, I can only think of one course that I did not really enjoy – and even that is a place that I would probably kill to be able to play every day. Scotland is heaven for golfers. In an age of expediency and profit chasing, it still largely represents the pure essence of the game – distilled down to the best parts. Reluctantly, I have decided to list my top 40 favorite Scottish golf courses. Please understand that I am not saying these are the most challenging, best conditioned, best tournament venues – or whatever Golf Magazine criteria you want to employ – they are just my favorites.

My main criteria is fun, followed by architectural character, history and the welcome afforded to visitors. Admittedly, I am partial to courses designed by the great James Braid. Above average – great – course conditioning can sometimes factor slightly in my judgement. For example, relatively unknown Gairloch was one of the most perfectly conditioned golf courses I have ever played.

I do also consider the cost of green fees. Places like Ardfin, Skibo Castle and (sadly now) Turnberry are just too expensive to play. That is not to downplay their worth as golf courses. If someone can afford to play a course that costs $2,500 a day and still enjoy it, good for them. I would be worried that every shot cost $214.76. The green fees for my entire trip were well less than the cost of a single round at Ardfin on the Isle of Jura – think about that for a minute. Exorbitant green fees are a trend in Scottish golf that I hope remains limited to a select few places.

Even after all these years, there are also still a few Scottish courses that I have never played – much to my detriment – such as Boat of Garten, Hopeman, Askernish, Iona and Isle of Harris. I hope I am spared to return. I could also easily list 20 more that probably deserve a spot on this list. Here is my top 40:

  1. Dunaverty
  2. Machrihanish
  3. Prestwick
  4. Brora
  5. Shiskine Golf & Tennis Club
  6. The Old Course
  7. Panmure
  8. Cruden Bay
  9. Elie (The Golf House Club)
  10. North Berwick
  11. Golspie
  12. Gairloch
  13. Isle of Colonsay
  14. Reay
  15. Anstruther
  16. Royal Dornoch
  17. Cullen
  18. Carnoustie
  19. Corrie
  20. Isle of Skye
  21. The Machrie
  22. Kilspindie
  23. Durness
  24. Royal Aberdeen
  25. Carradale
  26. Covesea
  27. Muirfield (HCEG)
  28. Wick
  29. Stonehaven
  30. The Glen (North Berwick)
  31. Bute GC
  32. Western Gailes
  33. Portmahomack
  34. Luffness New
  35. Crail
  36. Montrose Links
  37. Gullane No. 3
  38. Rothesay
  39. Comrie
  40. Winterfield

The following 250 photos are a visual chronicle of August 2021 in my favorite country.

  • Tarbert Golf Club
  • Grave markers in Kilmartin Glen
  • Kilmartin Glen
  • Carnassarie Castle in Kilmartin Glen
  • The Bridge Over the Atlantic
  • Wee Isle of Seil GC
  • 3rd green at Isle of Seil
  • 4th green at Isle of Seil
  • Low tide
  • Isle of Seil GC
  • Manners still rule in Scotland
  • Ellenabeich
  • Easdale – one of the Slate Islands
  • Grocery carts on Easdale
  • Robbie’s son, Neil Wilson, at Machrihanish
  • Stewarton
  • 1st and 18th at Dunaverty
  • 17th at Dunaverty from 5th tee
  • Looking towards Dunaverty Rock from 7th tee
  • 6th at Dunaverty
  • The abandoned Keil Hotel
  • Jack White’s Shop in Gullane
  • 7th tee at Gullane No. 1 with Muirfield in the distance
  • Gullane No. 1
  • Gullane No. 1
  • Scottish Golf in a photo – North Berwick
  • Perfection – North Berwick
  • The 17th at North Berwick with the Marine Hotel in the distance
  • Van de Velde’s Grave
  • Panmure, designed by James Braid
  • Panmure
  • Robbie in a tight spot at Panmure
  • Panmure
  • The perfect 12th at Panmure
  • Panmure
  • Lunch at Dunaverty, by Ailie & Rona
  • The 17th at Dunaverty from 4th tee
  • 6th at Dunaverty
  • Looking back at Mt Zion – Dunaverty
  • Dunaverty
  • Dunaverty
  • The brilliant 9th at Dunaverty
  • Looking back at the 9th from the 10th green – Dunaverty
  • The perfect 13th at Dunaverty, from the 14th tee
  • The 17th at Dunaverty
  • The burn on 17 at high tide
  • The 18th at Dunaverty
  • The ancient world of Isle of Colonsay GC
  • 2nd green at Colonsay
  • The blind 18th green at Colonsay
  • Natural golf
  • The 3rd tee at Colonsay
  • The machair
  • 8th green at Colonsay with natural bunker
  • 9th green at Colonsay
  • 13th green at Colonsay
  • 14th green at Colonsay
  • Natural bunkers
  • Golf in the 1750’s
  • 18th at Colonsay
  • 18th at Colonsay
  • Fresh oysters at the brilliant Colonsay Hotel
  • Breakfast at the Colonsay Hotel – poached eggs and avocado on toast
  • Isle of Colonsay
  • Glencruitten GC
  • Tarbert to Portavardie ferry
  • Kyles of Bute GC
  • Poached eggs on toast at the Rothesay Hotel
  • The Golfers Bar – Rothesay
  • Rothesay GC
  • Rothesay GC – stunning views all day
  • Rothesay GC
  • Rothesay
  • Dinner in Rothesay
  • The full Scottish this time
  • Bute GC
  • Locker room at Bute GC
  • Bute GC
  • 2nd green at Bute
  • 2nd green at Bute
  • 3rd hole at Bute
  • Chapel at Mount Stuart – Isle of Bute
  • Great Hall at Mount Stuart
  • Hill House by CR Mackintosh
  • Loch Fyne Osyter Bar
  • The magical Traigh GC
  • Traigh
  • Traigh
  • The brilliant 2nd green at Traigh
  • 2nd at Traigh
  • 2nd at Traigh
  • The par three 5th at Traigh
  • Traigh
  • Traigh
  • Traigh
  • Robbie, Gregor & Ryan on the 9th at Traigh GC
  • The path to Camusdarrach Beach
  • A 99 in Mallaig
  • The 3rd at Ballachulish
  • A visitor at Ballachulish
  • Ballachulish – Golf in the Highlands
  • Ballachulish
  • the 8th at Ballachulish
  • The 1st at Isle of Skye GC
  • Isle of Skye GC
  • Isle of Skye GC
  • Lochcarron GC
  • 8th green at Lochcarron
  • 9th at Lochcarron
  • Gairloch
  • 3rd at Gairloch GC
  • Gairloch GC
  • 4th at Gairloch
  • The blind par three 7th at Gairloch
  • 7th green at Gairloch
  • 8th hole at Gairloch
  • Gairloch
  • The brilliant 8th at Gairloch
  • The 5th at Durness GC
  • Durness
  • Durness
  • Jordan’s Scotty Cameron at Durness
  • Reay GC – another James Braid classic
  • Reay
  • Reay
  • Reay
  • Reay
  • Reay
  • The 9th green at Reay
  • The 16th at Reay
  • The par three 18th at Reay
  • The Strathy Inn – a perfect Highland home
  • Friends in Thurso – a lovely town
  • Bookstore in Thurso
  • Wick GC
  • Wick – great traditional, fast playing links golf
  • Wick
  • Wick – a lovely walk
  • Wick
  • Wick
  • 16th green at Wick
  • 17th tee at Wick
  • Wick
  • 18th tee at Wick
  • Great Golspie GC
  • Golspie
  • Golspie
  • Golspie
  • The brilliant par three 6th at Golspie
  • Golspie is stunning – From pure links to heathland
  • Looking back at the 7th at Golpsie
  • Back to the linksland at Golspie – the par three 16th
  • 1st tee at Brora GC – James Braid at his finest
  • The 9th at Brora
  • A friend on the 9th at Brora
  • The haar came in and out at Brora
  • Brora – Braid at his most elegant
  • Snake – the 13th at Brora
  • Playing thru at Brora
  • The 18th green at Brora
  • Portmahomack GC
  • Portmahomack
  • The great 6th at Portmahomack
  • The 6th at Portmahomack
  • 6th green at Portmahomack
  • The perfect 8th at Portmahomack
  • 8th at Portmahomack
  • 9th tee at Portmahomack – a surprise of the trip
  • 1st hole at wonderful Comrie GC – James Braid once again
  • Comrie
  • 2nd at Comrie – great par 3
  • The blind 4th at Killin GC
  • Killin
  • The magical world of Corrie GC
  • 2nd at Corrie – bizarre and fun
  • Corrie
  • Corrie
  • 3rd green at Corrie
  • Corrie
  • Corrie
  • The wonderful 6th green at Corrie
  • The benches at Corrie are excellent
  • 9th green at Corrie
  • The Corrie GC clubhouse
  • The 1st tee at Shiskine Golf & Tennis Club
  • The one-off 2nd green at Machrie Bay GC
  • 2nd green at Machrie Bay GC
  • Machrie Bay
  • Machrie Bay
  • The Road Hole at Machrie Bay
  • The Road Hole at Machrie Bay
  • The Road Hole at Machrie Bay
  • The 4th hole at Shiskine
  • The 4th green at Shiskine
  • The 7th green at Shiskine
  • The incomparable Shore Hole at Shiskine
  • Shiskine
  • Shiskine
  • The penultimate green at Shiskine
  • The 12th green at Shiskine
  • Back to wee Corrie
  • The 2nd green at Corrie – pure madness and fun
  • The Corrie Tea Room / Pro Shop
  • The Sea Captain’s House at Dunaverty Rock
  • Approaching the 13th at Dunaverty
  • Dunaverty
  • The 17th – Aka Robbie’s Grave
  • Dunaverty
  • Cheese course at Dunaverty
  • Dunaverty Bay
  • The Sea Captain’s House
  • An early morning on the 4th at Dunaverty
  • The 4th
  • The proposed alternate 5th tee at Dunaverty
  • Dunaverty
  • Walking down from the 14th tee at Dunaverty
  • My partner and great friend in the McColvin Best Ball at Machrihanish.
  • The 3rd at Machrihanish -in my top 10 holes in Scotland
  • 3rd green at Machrihanish from the 4th tee
  • Machrihanish – designed by Old Tom Morris and God
  • 9th green at Machrihanish
  • Machrihanish
  • The 18th hole at Machrihanish
  • The barley drying room at Springbank
  • Dunaverty Bay
  • The 4th at Dunaverty – the perfect golf hole
  • Robbie walks to the 7th on our last round together
  • Mt. Zion – Dunaverty
  • Back to magical Shiskine
  • Shiskine
  • The tough par three 3rd at Shiskine – only perfect strikes suffice
  • The Shore Hole – in my top 10
  • I could play Shiskine every day
  • My friend Ari on the 17th at Shiskine
  • The Corrie Hotel
  • The legendary Chris McBride at Prestwick
  • The Alps at Prestwick
  • Sunset in Ayr – looking past Arran to Dunaverty

12 thoughts on “When Revelation Comes”

  1. Loved your list as i have played many of them …. played Boat of Garton a few years ago and it was a treat! Great side benefit was the best sticky toffee pudding i have ever had in the clubhouse!

    1. Boat of Garten has been on my list forever. I did at least stop by there this time. It looks like my kind of place. Thanks for reading. I really appreciate it.

  3. Fabulous summary . Sorry for your loss. No doubt hugely emotional trip . Thank you for inspiring readers to look beyond the “ biggies” to find hidden gems . I loved NB as well and your picture of # 13 ( the wall) brings back strong memories. Thank you!
    I’ve only been twice but if I have the opportunity to return to the home of golf your list will be an excellent and essential guide.

  4. Like many I am very much looking forward to your book. You have absolutely nailed the best parts of Scottish golf. As I’ve mentioned before Harris will not disappoint and I’m sure you will make it there one day. And Blairgowrie also which is a James Braid-fest. Specifically the Wee Course which I learned how to play (badly) on. In the meantime enjoy Sweetens Cove.

    1. Thank you Mark. I appreciate that. I would love to play Blairgowrie, especially since its by Braid. I am definitely going to Isle of Harris. I just couldnt get the ferries to work this time. I think Harris and Iona are the 2 courses left at the top of my list to play. It was impossible to find a place to stay on Mull while I was there, so I didnt go to Iona.

  5. First, so sorry for your loss. I followed your Scottish journey on Twitter and found your trip both heart warming and inspiring. I recently returned from a much smaller trip to North Berwick, Muirfield and The Renaissance Club. All very fine courses, but it was NB that got the juices flowing. I look forward to your book.

    1. Thank you for the kind words. North Berwick is so good. I had not played it in 20 years prior to this trip and had forgotten how much fun it is.

  6. A photographic delight from start to finish! A month playing golf in Scotland sounds like heaven! The weather was kind to you, hope the midges were too! The more I see of the Kintyre beauties – the more I can’t wait to visit them in 2023, in-fact I think I’m more excited about playing Dunaverty and Machrahanish than I am the Old Course (which is March 2022).
    Your enthusiasm for traditional Scottish links golf is akin to that of my own – even if I don’t get to play anywhere as many as you do. But please keep the photos and blogs coming they are a delight – and I can’t wait for the book (whatever it may be called)…

    1. Thank you. I fell in love with Kintyre and Arran a long time ago. Those are the 2 places I always return to. I hope the book doesn’t take as long as my first one did! If you need any advice at all on your trip, feel free to ask.

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